Fabric & material specifications
Every uniform is only as good as the fabric behind it. Here is exactly how we spec our fabrics — so you can choose with confidence, not guesswork.
GSM — how heavy the cloth is
GSM (grams per square metre) is the single fastest way to judge whether a fabric suits the job. Lighter for shirting and heat; heavier for abrasion and protection.
| GSM | Best for |
|---|---|
| 100–140 | Corporate shirts, summer wear |
| 140–180 | Scrubs, polos, standard shirting |
| 180–220 | Trousers, chef coats |
| 220–280 | Industrial coveralls, security, logistics |
| 280–320+ | Heavy-duty PPE, extreme wear |
What the cloth is made of
The blend decides comfort, shrinkage and how the garment holds up to industrial laundry.
| Blend | Best for |
|---|---|
| 100% Cotton | Healthcare, chef whites, premium shirting, young school children |
| Poly-Cotton 65/35 | Corporate, school, hospitality — the all-round choice |
| Poly-Cotton 80/20 | Industrial, logistics, security — max durability |
| NyCo (Nylon-Cotton) | Armed forces, tactical wear |
| 100% Polyester | Hi-vis vests, rainwear |
How the colour gets in
Colourfastness is what separates a uniform that still matches after six months from one that does not.
| Method | What it gives you | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Yarn-dyed | Colour woven in before the fabric is made — strongest colourfastness, allows checks and stripes | Corporate shirting, formal patterns |
| Piece-dyed | Fabric dyed after weaving, as a solid colour | Cost-effective solids |
| Reactive dyeing | Dye bonds into the cotton fibre — bright, long-lasting | Cotton garments washed often |
| Vat dyeing | Deepest, most wash- and light-fast dye class available | Workwear, scrubs, daily-washed uniforms |
| Disperse dyeing | For polyester fibres specifically | PC blends, polyester workwear |
| Solution-dyed | Colour added before the fibre is even spun — will not fade | Hi-vis safety wear, outdoor uniforms |
Prints that survive industrial laundry
Vat printing applies vat dye directly onto the fabric as a print — logos, camouflage, patterns — then fixes it through steaming. It is the same dye class used in vat dyeing, so the print gets the same industrial-strength wash- and light-fastness.
It is the standard choice whenever a printed design has to survive frequent hot-water or industrial laundering without cracking, peeling or fading: company logos on workwear, camouflage patterns on military uniforms, and branded prints on high-wash-frequency garments.
It costs more than basic pigment printing but lasts far longer, so it pays off on anything washed multiple times a week.
How the yarn is woven
The weave sets the character of the cloth — smooth and formal, or heavy and abrasion-resistant.
| Weave | Character | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Poplin | Fine, smooth, tightly woven | Corporate & office shirting |
| Twill | Diagonal rib, strong | Trousers, industrial wear, school uniforms |
| Drill | Heavier, tightly woven twill | Industrial coveralls, security uniforms |
| Ripstop | Reinforced crosshatch, tear-resistant | Military, tactical, heavy PPE |
| Pique / Terry knit | Textured, breathable knit | Polo shirts, hospitality staff wear |
| Gaberdine | Tight twill, slight sheen | Formal trousers, aviation uniforms |
T-shirts & polos
Knits work differently from woven fabric — they are built from looped yarn, which is what gives t-shirts and polos their stretch and softness. Yarn count here is a single number, not warp x weft, since only one yarn runs through the knit.
Knit type
| Knit | Character | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Single Jersey | Light, stretchy, smooth face / textured back, curls at raw edges | Standard t-shirts, undershirts |
| Interlock | Two knits locked together — thicker, smoother both sides, does not curl, holds shape | Premium polos, corporate tees, collars |
| Rib knit | Very stretchy, ridged texture | Collars, cuffs, waistbands (not the main body) |
| Pique knit | Textured, small waffle-like surface, breathable | Polo shirts |
Composition
| Composition | Best for |
|---|---|
| 100% Combed Cotton | Premium, soft retail / corporate giveaway tees |
| 100% Carded Cotton | Cost-effective bulk / school tees |
| CVC (60/40 cotton-poly) | Softness of cotton, less shrinkage — good all-rounder |
| PC 65/35 or 50/50 | Sports jerseys, workwear undershirts — more durable, less breathable |
| 100% Polyester (micro) | Moisture-wicking sportswear |
Single yarn count
| Count | Weight (approx GSM) | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 20s | 180–200 | Heavier, rugged tees — workwear undershirts, budget bulk tees |
| 24s | 160–180 | Standard mid-weight tees, polo base fabric |
| 30s | 140–160 | Lighter, softer — premium retail tees |
| 40s | 120–140 | Very fine, premium fashion-weight tees |
Rule of thumb: the higher the count number, the finer and lighter the fabric — same as woven.
Warp x weft
Construction tells you how many yarns run each way per inch. Lower numbers mean thicker yarn and a heavier, tougher cloth.
| Construction | Fabric feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 14x14 | Very heavy, canvas-like | Extreme-duty coveralls, tool belts, tents |
| 16x16 | Heavy, sturdy | Boiler suits, security & construction workwear |
| 20x20 | Balanced, durable | Standard industrial / school trousers |
| 20x16 | Smooth face, strong fill | Industrial uniforms wanting a neater finish |
| 24x24 | Light, smooth | Corporate / school shirting-weight twill |
Which fabric fits your industry
Our standard starting spec per sector. Tap an industry to see the full range we make for it.
| Industry | Fabric | Spec |
|---|---|---|
| Corporate | Poplin / 100% cotton | 100–140 GSM, 24x24 |
| Healthcare | 100% cotton / PC 65/35 | 140–170 GSM |
| School | PC 65/35 | 120–160 GSM, 20x20 |
| Industrial | PC 80/20 twill | 220–280 GSM, 16x16 or 20x16 |
| Construction | PC 80/20 drill | 250–320 GSM, 14x14 or 16x16 |
| Armed Forces | NyCo / ripstop | 200–250 GSM |
| Aviation | Poly-viscose gaberdine | 200–260 GSM |
| Hotel | Poly-viscose / PC twill | 180–220 GSM |
| Restaurants | 100% cotton twill | 180–220 GSM |
| Logistics & Transport | Polyester / PC 80/20 | 240–280 GSM |
| Retail | PC 65/35 poplin | 120–160 GSM |
| Education | PC 65/35 / poly-viscose | 140–180 GSM |
100% cotton or a blend?
Go 100% cotton when…
The garment sits against skin all day, the climate is hot, the wearer is a young child, or you want premium shirting that looks and feels natural.
Go poly-cotton when…
The garment is washed heavily every day, has to keep a wrinkle-free look, or needs to hold its shape and colour under industrial use.
Know your spec? Send it with your RFQ.
Quote GSM, blend and construction on the form and we can price it precisely — no back-and-forth.